Pages

Thursday, June 21, 2012

A call to build a nation

The moment Aung San Suu Kyi made her way down the steps of Westminster Hall, 2500 people rose to applaud her. We didn’t stop applauding until she finally took her seat.

Her diminutive figure belies her huge stature.  This beacon for democratic freedoms was speaking at the home of parliamentary democracy; the first Asian to do so, the first woman to do so, the first non head of state to do so. She joined Barack Obama, Nelson Mandela and Pope Benedict XVI in a very small group of international figures to have addressed parliament at all. This was an opportunity to hear and to honour an individual who chose to endure 15 years of detention and even surrendered her right to see her dying husband, Michael Aris, in pursuit of a cause for which she was prepared to give her life.

With all the key figures from British political life present, Suu Kyi spoke of her passion for political engagement and participation. She spoke of the cost that the people of Burma have paid; living since 1962 under the iron grip of a military regime which denied the very basic of human freedoms. She spoke of her commitment to pragmatic, constructive dialogue with the same regime which had imprisoned her for so long. She spoke of her conviction that without political freedom, people’s aspirations will go unmet and that no other form of economic or social development is then possible. She spoke of the need to usher in a culture of political settlement in Burma to bring an end to the conflicts with ethnic groups which have raged for over 40 years and led to the worst excesses of human rights violations; the use of children as human mine sweepers, rape as a weapon of war and the forcible displacement of hundreds of thousands of ethnic minorities. She spoke of her pride to have stood and voted in her first election in March 2011 – in which she won a seat as an MP. She spoke of her gratitude to Britain for being the largest bi-lateral donor to Burma of any Western country.

Then she turned her attention to the help needed to build Burma’s future. This was not the moment to relent, to retreat or assume that the battle for a brighter tomorrow had been won, she said. Two issues were needed more than anything else; firstly  the need to build the institutions of civil society that will ensure that democracy and the rule of law take root in Burma. Secondly, she called for desperately needed help for Burma’s education sector - to train teachers, develop new curriculums and to increase access to education for ethnic groups.

On all counts, it seemed obvious to me that  the organisation I work for, VSO, has an opportunity to provide the volunteers to address both issues which will be so important to sustaining and protecting Burma’s fledgling reforms.  Now is the time to re-double our efforts and  consider what we can do to assist Burma  on the path of becoming a free nation. Any takers to volunteer in Burma?

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

a limiting theory

I have a simple theory. It is also an important theory. One that if proved right could change our experience of the life we live.

The theory is about the depth of human potential within each one of us. The power within. My absolute, sure fire conviction is that we are all capable of greatness; breath-taking courage, resilience and compassion.

It is not just that most of us walk around with untapped potential but that we completely under-estimate the extent of that potential in first place. There is a yawning gap between our perceived limits and our true capacity. We live so far within the safety zone that even limited risk taking is perceived as reckless. I found this in a small way running from Amsterdam to London. People were quick to say the body won't be able to stand what you are asking it to do. For me too, it started as an impossible mission and ended in realisation that I could have ran back to Amsterdam if I had to!

The limits we place on ourselves are a powerful construct. They have the ability of dimming our imagination, narrowing our view and preventing us experiencing life in all its boundless possibilities, wonder and mystery. The years of political stagnation across north Africa is surely testament to the fact that we can so easily put up with the status quo even when it is within our collective gift to create a different, better, brighter reality. When the flames of revolution were fanned, the people found they did have power to change their nation’s history.

So we need the audacity to have big ideas, to go beyond the comfortable and find out for ourselves what we can really do and be. Because that where the good stuff happens. Life transitions from the mundane to the extraordinary when we drive right past the sign that says ‘your limits end here’.

Wednesday, December 08, 2010

the final assault


Duncan and I completed over 1.1million steps and 140miles over 5 and half days and arrived in Soho Square at just before 11am this morning. It was done with a passion to raise awareness about the reality of human trafficking. People should not be bought and sold.

That said, i have taken off my running shoes and promised my battered feet never to get in those particular trainers again! some semblance of revenge for my feet, I suppose.

overall, I will remember this run not for the euphoric highs of completing each day - even though they were some of the sweetest moments of my life! I will remember this adventure for what it has taught me about pain and its benefits. Pain strips away your pretences. Pain pulls courage out of you. Pain forces you to rely on others. Pain helps you identify with the suffering of others. Most importantly, pain extinguishes the numbness of life and helps you cherish the good things.

I will also remember the sparks of kindness and generosity that we were shown along the way. I don't particulalry need my faith in humanity revived but there was plenty of evidence on offer as we ran. From Vince the masseur who gave up 2 hours of his time today to rescue our legs to the east london mini cooper driver who kept driving past us and shouting 'you can do it', we saw people at their best during this run.

a really big thank you to everyone who has supported Duncan and I in small ways and big!

Tuesday, December 07, 2010

hello london!

i have never been so excited to see the cars rumbling slowly down the M25! 120 miles of pounding runs had brought us to this first glorious glimpse of London. We danced and sang under the bridge like school boys.

today was super-fun (also painful). the day started in BBC Radio Essex. when we were done, we had two support cars in front and behind and Duncan and I ran every step together - literally pushing each other through. We had planned to run 24miles but Duncan was so excited to get to London that we stuck on a couple more to reach a full marathon.

the sun was out and our spirits were high. we knew this was the last big push. I struggled for the first hour or two but slowly the body started coming to terms with running again and found the groove.

the support cars with big banners and the radio interview meant that drivers were honking their horns and pedestrians were cheering as we went by. People took a double take when they realised the two guys had run from Amsterdam!

Lots have people have said we are crazy to be doing this. But running through the daily commute made us think; what's crazy is letting life slip past and not trying to make the world a better place!

Monday, December 06, 2010

marathon montage

payoff run

today, i cashed in my chips for getting through three really tough runs. For the last three days, I have run like Quasimodo - shoulders hunched and dragging my painful leg behind me.

today, i warmed up and the leg felt stronger. As I started to run, the most amazing thing happened - there was no pain! I kept my head down and got into a groove. For the first time on this adventure, I wasn't holding people up - this time, I was out in front and wanted to stay there!

Duncan on the other hand was entering a different place. Every step sent shooting pains up his legs. He made it in the end but was in bits. I held him at the end as the whole frame of his body heaved with pain. I looked at him and pure courage looked back!

the support from so many people has been humbling. yesterday, two of Duncan's friends drove 2 hours each way to give us a massage. Phil Lane is anohter hero. He has cycled behind me for most of the route from Amsterdam - encouraging me, pusing me on. Today, he inspired me with a story of a woman he knew in Brussels. She had been trafficked to Brussels and Phil said that today, she was likely to be raped 5 times by 'clients'. That made me angry! Phil told us to put our pain in perspective and get out there!

the day ended in a doctor's surgery. His advice; stop running! Not likely...

I learnt a lesson today; there is a reward when you don't give up when the pain starts.

www.justgiving.com/markdrowland

Sunday, December 05, 2010

tear jerker

what a great night! duncs had got us an upgrade on the overnight ferry from Holland so we went delux class! the mini bar was free but we had to refrain from turning to heavy drinking at that juncture...

we decided to dedicate the day to a two year old girl, Babou. Her mother gave birth to her unaccompanied on the roof of a train station in Mumbai after the hospital turned her away. not able to make ends meet, Babou's mother was sold to a trafficker, aged just two. she hasnt been seen since. it was all the motivation we needed to run another 25 miles today.

As we set off, I felt emotion welling up - part empathy for the reasons we were running and part in apprehension for the run ahead. Nearly six hours later, the emotions burst out again - this time in pure relief. Duncs blubbed too - so i knew it wasn't just me going soft!!

no snow today but was harder in some ways on the concrete roads. the body was in open revolt: knees, achillies and calves led the attempted coup. i had to hold the line - obedience was a non-negotiable!!

tomorrow's run includes a six mile hill - so sure the revolutionary body parts will plot another uprising. more tears likely.

www.twitter.com/stopthetraffik
www.justgiving.com/markdrowland

Saturday, December 04, 2010

running in ice blocks


you have to back to 1901 to find a december that was as cold as the one we ran in Holland today! duncan and i raunthrough snow for almost 5 hours and slipped and slidded our way to the Hook of Holland.

It was a mamouth experience! it started in such great pain as our legs started working after the 30miles of yesterday. Profanities spilled from my mouth as I tried to come to terms with running on a dodgy knee. i whinced with pain every time it bent - which isn't great when you have 20 miles to go. Duncan was dealing with his own private hell and we got through singing various hits from Simon and Garfunkel.

the snow started to fall and the wind blew. Icicles formed on our hats and scarves. but it was going to take more than a blizzard to stop us! I got passed by a cyclist who wanted to know where i was running. I told him. 10mins later he returned pushing 35euros in my pocket. Amazing!

Duncan had to go faster than my shuffling pace and I lost sight of him after about two hours. From there it was just about taking every half hour. i didn't think the end would come but the euphoria when i finally saw the ferry was incredible.

the day was finished with an all you can eat chinese and the most amazing armed military policeman who was a sports masseur! he spent half an hour giving duncan and i a massage in the ferry terminal. I didn't even realise that Angels carried guns!

Friday, December 03, 2010

message for cohen


cohen - i wanted to post a video so you could see us running but it won't load up. here is a pic of us instead.

when you run long distances, you get weak and you realise afresh the things you most value. and for me, its you!

hope you are doing ok

epic day 1


incredible first day - am sitting with both knees iced up after Duncan I ran 30miles from Amsterdam. It took us 6 hours of running in sub zero conditions. it was beautiful but FREEZING running along flat Dutch countryside.

We were joined by Dutch media to set us off which was great. Tried to make sense to the reporters but only really got as far as saying we run because small steps get us along way - and it will be the same in combatting trafficking!

A fool hardy band of three other runners who made it most of the way.

Tomorrow will be equally cold as we try to get another 20miles under our belt. My knee is protesting LOUDLY - we will see who wins the battle of wills!

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Why I am running from Amsterdam to London

13th Nov 2010

On Dec 3rd, my friend Duncan Parker and I plan to run 136 miles from Amsterdam to London. It is just over five marathons in six days – enough to stretch the body and mind to new limits. It is in part an experiment to discover what lies beneath for me when the veneer of easy living is stripped away.

That is important because I need to find ways to identify and remember that for many people, life is not comfortable.

UNICEF for example, cite that 1.2million children are trafficked each year. Children sold and transported into slavery for sexual exploitation, sweat shops, child brides, circuses, sacrificial worship, forced begging, sale of human organs, farm labour, domestic servitude. That is the antithesis of comfort. The trend is growing too – with over 2-4million people in total trafficked each year.

For many people, enduring their daily routine is much more demanding than running long distances will ever be.

I remember seeing that endurance in the eyes of a village elder called Waling when I visited Shan State in Burma several years ago. Standing on the spine of a mountain ridge with incredible vistas of Burma’s jungles, Waling told me how he had fled his village when the Burma Army had attacked. Out of 70 families, only 4 had made it to safety. Just before I finished speaking with him, I asked if he had lost any family members in the attack. He told me that his elderly parents had been too slow to leave and were burnt alive in their home.

Pain like that takes some carrying. Waling carried it without a trace of self-pity. Our conversation has stayed with me because as I returned to my life in the UK, I didn’t want indifference to corrode my soul.

So, this run is a simple way to keep me connected to people like Waling and those caught up in the murky world of traffiking. I want to send a message; I do care; I will act; their plight is not forgotten.

To support our run go to; www.justgiving.com/markdrowland

See more info; www.partnersworld.org and www.stopthetraffik.org


ENDs

Monday, November 01, 2010

Why the Church should care about injustice?

Frontline Church, Liverpool 31st Oct 2010

Good morning. Its great to be back here - over a decade since I left as a student. It is great find you have lost none of your warmth, dynamism and energy.

I come here today with a simple message. It is this; that issues of justice are right at the core of the Christian faith and that the renewal of the church and our own spiritual growth depends upon the commitment we have to those issues. Social Justice is not an issue Christians can add as an optional extra - like ordering extra cheese on your pizza. It is the pizza.

I want to start with a story.

There was once a devout man who lived in a world where all religious belief was illegal. He was accused of being a follower of Christ, arrested and dragged before a court.

He had been under clandestine surveillance for some time and so the prosecution had been able to build up quite a case against him; photographs that show him attending church meetings, speaking at religious events, and participating in prayer and worship services; poems and journal entries concerning his faith; a well worn bible, with scribbles, notes, and underlinings throughout.

Once the prosecution had finished presenting the case, the judge looked deep into his eyes and began to speak;

‘Of the charges that have been brought forward, I find the accused, not guilty’. ‘Not Guilty?’. Fear and terror turn to confusion and rage. He demands that the judge gives an account concerning why he is innocent of the charges.

‘What about the poems and prose that I wrote, the services I spoke at?’ He said. ‘They simply prove that you think of yourself as a poet – evidence you are good actor perhaps - nothing more’. replied the judge. ‘But this is madness. It would seem that no evidence would convince you!’

‘Not so’ replies the judge. The court is indifferent towards your bible reading and church attendance. It has no concern with your worship with words or a pen. We exist only for those only for those who would lay down their life in an endeavour to create a better world – not describe it. They are a threat to our state. So until you live as Christ and his followers did, until you challenge this system and become a thorn in our side, until you die to yourself, then my friend, you are no enemy of ours..’
Peter Rollins

After leaving Liverpool as a student, I have had the real honour to travel across in Asia, South America and Africa and hear the stories of the poor; stories of great suffering, but stories of faith and a struggle for justice.

My first job after University was to work with the Foreign Office and the family of James Mawdsley – who was a 27 year old imprisoned in Burma for a peaceful protest against the military regime. I saw up close where a deep Christian faith and a belief in justice for the world’s poor can lead you. It’s a dangerous calling. For James, it meant 17months in solitary confinement with just a copy of the bible and Thomas A Kempis’ Imitation of Christ for company.

We eventually made ourselves enough of a nuisance that the Burmese regime released James. It was good to make use of my God-given gift to make a nuisance of myself! I had worked myself out of a job but found a vocation.

The concept of justice does not need explaining. We know it when we see its anti-thesis; injustice. I’ve seen it in the tears of my son when his Buzz Lightyear toy has been snatched from him; I’ve also seen it in the ashes of a Burmese home, burnt to the ground before an elderly grandmother had time to escape.

We need to get angry about injustice but not act in anger.

No issue of injustice is so endemic, so scandalous, so damaging than the issue of poverty. In today’s world there are a billion people living in conditions comparable to feudal Britain in the 14th century. The bottom billion of our world live in about 40 countries that instead of moving forward, are on a slow train that is decisively moving backwards. If you live in one of those countries, 14% of your children will die before they are four years old. Average life expectancy is 47.

I recently visited another of these countries. Sierra Leone only comes ahead of Niger and Afghanistan – in the UN Human Dev index. Sierra Leone is resource rich – it has diamonds, iron ore deposits, beautiful beaches. But the reason people live in poverty are rooted in its 15 years of civil war – a war that ordinary people did not ask. It is also rooted in the unequal playing field that allows Western companies to mine their precious natural resources without paying fair rates of tax that could be used to build schools, roads and hospitals. I met with executives of a mining firm in SL and they flatly refused to comply with SL’s own legislation about how much tax should be paid by mining companies. It is also rooted in the worsening climate that has seen more erratic weather conditions and lower yields for poor farmers. It complex but lets be clear. It amounts to a huge injustice.

We all need light bulb moment to shake us from accepting the world as it is. I remember that moment for me. I was visiting a village of Leffe in the Siltie region of central Ethiopia. It was the rainy season and on the surface at least, all seemed lush and fertile.

But the green vegetation flattered to deceive. The water table was dangerously low and access to clean water was a huge problem.

As I climbed up a bank, what confronted me needed to be seen to be believed. Half a dozen women are wading knee deep in turgid, brown coloured water. They were helping each other fill brightly coloured jerry cans as part of a daily routine to collect and carry the 20 litres of water they need. Buzzing mosquitoes surround them – this is a natural breeding ground for malaria, typhoid and water-borne diseases.

I spoke with one of the women, Fatima Ahmed, who was carrying her three year old daughter on her back as she collected water. She told me that she sometimes she sees worms swimming in her water but she has limited choice. The only alternative is a three hour round trip to the nearest stream. I asked her what she used the water for; she said, cooking, cleaning and drinking.

In the 21st century, women are still collecting water that could kill them.

As Bono said ‘Africa didn’t just blow my mind, it opened my mind!’ Poverty is a scandal – because it exists as a result of the active choice of the empowered and privileged. Did you know that there is more money spent on treating baldness than treating malaria? A million people die each year from malaria – 90% are children under 5 in Africa. I have to tell you that if a million American or European children were dying of malaria, we would find the money for treatment.


That is exactly why Christ gave us the prophetic mandate to address issues of justice. Christian are surely called to make choices that support the weakest not exploit or expose them.

And we know where different choices can lead. Revd Jesse Jackson was with us in London last week and he reminded me that the civil rights movement, led by the churches, created the reality in which he now lives. He now lives in a country where he no longer gets jailed for stepping into a public library. That’s justice.

There are over 2000 verses that point us to God’s view of poverty and justice. Psalm 82 3-4 is one; ‘Give justice to the weak and the orphan; maintain the right of the lowly and the destitute. Rescue the weak and the needy.’ So, the gospel is emphatically good news for society as well as the individual.

In Luke 4.18, in one Jesus’ first public pronouncements, he sets his mission statement for his ministry when he unrolls the scroll in the synagogue; ‘The Spirit of the Lord is on me, because he has anointed me to preach good news to the poor. He has sent me to proclaim freedom for the prisoners and recovery of sight for the blind, to release the oppressed.’ This was a man with a vision of spiritual and social transformation.

Theologically, there is a danger of privatising salvation to an emotional experience which fails to fully lead us into the challenge of Christ’s calling on our lives. The mystery of the gospel is that it draws us inward to understand ourselves and God and pushes outward to love and act. This is the essence of faith captured in Micah 6 8;
And what does the LORD require of you?
To act justly and to love mercy (that’s the outward process)
and to walk humbly with your God (that’s the inner life)

My reflection of my own discipleship is that it majored on the inner journey to the neglect of the outer one. We need a clear theology of justice so that we ensure it does not become relegated to an optional extra. For me this comes with an understanding that relationships at every level, individual, local, national and international, are fractured. It is from these fractured and unequal relationships that creates much of the pain and injustice we see in today’s world. Christ’s redemptive mission was to restore right relationships between Himself and His people but also between people, communities and nations.

So the relational theology brings together the inner and outer journey – something that it elusive. The Franciscan writer Richard Rohr writes ‘All of us (every church) have evaded the unmistakable teaching of Jesus’ challenge on poverty. All of us have evaded his straightforward doctrine of loving your enemy. Jesus is too much for us.’

For me, the quest for a more just world is the defining challenge of our generation. I believe that the dividing lines between churches for the next generation will not be between Protestants and Catholics or between evangelicals and liberals; I think the great distinction will be between those Christians who build issues of justice into the very DNA of their faith.

So where to start? what can we actually do? Jesus wasn’t prescriptive about how to respond. No easy answers. His use of parables left his audience an active part to find their own conclusions. And that’s the same challenge for you today but here are a few hints.

1. Courage – it always takes courage to fight injustice because you will be exposing vested interest and powerful alliances. We need courage to decide to challenge our own self-interest and make choices that carry a cost
2. Creativity - there are many options to respond; to volunteer time, perhaps giving your expertise as a trustee, to give money, to review your own carbon consumption, to buy/invest and use your money more ethically, to learn about a specific issue, to educate and inspire others, to use your voice in protest. The key is to match your God-given talents and harness them in a just cause. If you are a teacher, teach the young to fight injustice, if you are an intellectual, use it to help shape policy that will benefit the poor, if you are a writer or muscian, tell the stories of the poor.
3. Commitment – we have to decide to do something. To reject indifference and align our values, choices and actions.

Just like the man in the story we have to make sure we are ‘not too busy doing church work that we fail to do the work of the church’.

Tuesday, July 06, 2010

The Scandal of Sweet Home Farm


It was the morning after the dreadful night before and I was making my way with my best mate in a gold, rust-ridden 1985 Volkswagen Passat into one of South Africa’s informal settlements – Sweet Home Farm.

We hadn’t even driven round the first corner when the young boys from the community spotted our car. Worse, they knew we were English. Before you could even utter the words ‘goal-line technology’, these boys were running up to the car laughing and holding up four fingers with one hand and just one solitary finger with the other. ‘Germany 4; England 1’, they shouted with glee. And with that went my faint hope that this might be the one place where that news had filtered through...

But if I needed a perspective for my football blues, I had come to the right place. Sweet Home Farm is one of 323 informal settlements in Cape Town. It is located East of Cape Town's Southern Suburbs within the district of Philippi. The settlement started in 1995 on a rubbish dump when 12 families arrived from the Eastern Cape – looking for the promise of work in the aftermath of apartheid. Today, there are 17,000 people in Sweet Home Farm. The result of this massive urban migration (some one million have arrived in Cape Town since 1994) is an unemployment rate of up to 70%. The consequence is predictable; grinding poverty.

The constitution of South Africa confers the right for families to stay in a location unless the government can provide a suitable alternative. In the case of Sweet Home Farm, no alternative has been given. But the people live in a legal limbo land. An informal settlement means that residents don’t enjoy the same privileges as those living in formal settlements . For example, it took Cape Town City Council ten years to provide any toilets in Sweet Home Farm and basic water points have only just been provided. Only in formal settlements can families attain the title deeds in order to own a plot of land and then your own home. Home ownership is one of the main ways poor families can pass on a better hope for their children’s future. As Joy Klimbashe – the co-ordinator for the SHF team which works through 'The Warehouse' charity - put it, ‘if people have a home, it brings dignity and dignity changes people’s mindset – suddenly they have rights.’

I asked Joy why on earth the government hadn’t designated Sweet Home Farm a formal settlement so that the community could start to develop? He told me that the issue comes down to two men in Johannesburg who own half the land and have so far refused to sell it to the government. If the land isn’t municipally owned, then it cannot be declared a formal settlement.

My reaction? Appalled. Apalled that two men could halt the progress and development for 17,000 people. Appalled by the apparent desparate lack of urgency on behalf of the City Council to resolve an issue that has been rolling for a decade. Appalled that the power of the wealthy could be used to undermine the future of the poor.

However, hope is a renewable energy resource that is still there to be harnessed. The Warehouse is one of the few organisations committed to seeing the development of Sweet Home Farm. They have also identified a window of opportunity. In 2011, there are local government elections in Cape Town. It is a chance to put the scandal of Sweet Home Farm firmly on the local political agenda. A targeted and determined advocacy campaign to see the city authorities designate Sweet Home Farm a formal settlement is needed alongside work to mobilise community leadership from within Sweet Home Farm to articulate their own struggle.

That is much easier said than done. But in a country that has defeated apartheid, you have to believe that it is within the realms of possibility to see Sweet Home Farm transformed into a entitled, represented and even prosperous community. Gaining formal settlement status is the critical first step and like England’s goal that wasn’t against Germany, there is no sensible reason why the authorities haven't allowed this.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

roll up, roll up - lets change the world

http://www.christianaid.org.uk/philanthropy/

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Memoirs from North Korea - Day 1


From Feb 3rd-7th I joined a parliamentary delegation visiting the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK) headed by Lord Alton and Baroness Cox. Here is my daily account:

Feb 3rd

As we touched down in North Korea, the landscape appeared barren and brown. Although the sun was shining, the lakes were frozen over as a result of minus 13 degree conditions the week before. From the plane you could see small silhouettes of people skating on the ice. However, my concerns over a frosty reception were allayed when we were met on the tarmac by an enthusiastic welcoming committee, including the DPRK Ambassador.

We were ushered into the VIP lounge in which we exchanged pleasantries. After a few minutes, we were asked to hand over our mobile phones。 Although not unexpected, this was a reality check for me。 With my digital umbilical chord temporarily severed, I was driven to our hotel in a brown 1960s Mercedes. Its beige seats and flannel covered steering wheel were symbolic of the fact that time too had frozen here.

On the road to Pyongyang, we passed ordered villages built in symmetrical rows. We were told that in Pyongyang everyone had jobs, a house and enough to eat. However, outside the bubble of the capital, life was much starker. The separation with the south has meant that the North can't easily afford to feed its own people. As a result, almost 2million people died of food shortages in the 1990s and still more than 37% of six year olds in North Korea are chronically malnourished.

We arrived at our splendid Koryo Hotel and unpacked bags. Baroness Cox and I went for a walk before dinner. After a few minutes we realised we had been tracked down by our North Korean guide. He told us it was not possible for us to walk alone。 We witnessed a quiet city full of greying high rise apartment blocks and ordinary people who kept their heads down as they walked past, shy of catching your eye.

We returned from our walk for a formal dinner at the hotel。 The setting was almost opulent. After a series of speeches and course after course of food, the conversation drifted to anecdotes of the North Korean's visit to London. Apparently our host had visited the Tower of London in 1989 for a reception and parked his car in the space reserved for Lady Thatcher! He said he had been invited to the UK by a young Scottish, Labour MP. No-one could think who that would have been. 'Scottish…Labour MP?' I ventured, 'it wasn't Gordon Brown was it?' They seemed to get the joke.

The night ended with a coffee with the newly installed British Ambassador. he was obviously knowledgeable and very supportive of our visit to North Korea.

Memoirs from North Korea - Day 2



Feb 4th

The first full day started with a visit to the birth place of North Korea's Great Leader. Born in the woods around Pyongyang, Kim Il Sung had gone on to liberate Korea from the Japanese in 1945. Although his son Kim Jong Il has taken power since his death in 1994, Kim Il Sung is still considered the immortal leader of North Korea and is revered by all who live in the North.

We left the woodlands to attend a meeting with DPRK ambassador. He expressed real sadness that relations with South Korea had deteriorated badly in recent months and at one point said 'there is no telling how bad this situation can get – our soldiers are angry and indignant'. A new harder line government has won power in the South and is now insisting on new conditions before engaging. For the North, this is seen as reneging on previous bi-lateral agreements and an act of provocation by the South.

The second meeting followed soon after with the business sector. These 9 men responsible for running North Korea's big business. They talked proudly of the export, manufacturing and IT sectors in which they work. Although there is no private sector in DPRK since everything from restaurants to railways is state-owned, they know that foreign investment is critical to the country's future prosperity. We saw at least two covered markets in Pyongyang which suggested some that some liberalisation has taken place.

The next meeting was with the Minister for Foreign Affairs, Mr Kung Sok Ung. After exchanging pleasantries, David Alton asked Mr Sok about reports we had seen of North Koreans dying in their attempts to flee the border and about the conditions in the prison camps where at least 200,000 are reportedly held. Finally, he raised the level of military spending in North Korea - 30% of the county's GDP and asked if this could be better used in other areas. Mr Sok refuted the claims over human rights abuses as Western propaganda and branded all 'defectors' from North Korea as criminals (something David Alton countered because he had met at least one escapee who had been born in the camps). Although Mr Sok said he would welcome further assistance on the food security question, he repeated the mantra that while hostile relations with the US and the South remained, a strong military was essential.

I was impressed by David Alton's skill in surpassing platitudes without losing a sense of respect for our hosts. Politicians have too often been given a bad name but it is impressive to see the 'dark arts' deployed to such good effect.

The day ended with dinner at the invitation of a few of the embassy staff and a small number expats that are teaching English in Pyongyang - we ate fine food and drank beer before I retreated to bed.

Memoirs from North Korea - Day 3



Feb 5th

In the morning we went to see the body of Kim Il Sung lying in state. This is not the place to describe what one sees there – suffice to say that it will remain with me for many years to come.

We left the mausoleum for the more enlivened environment of Kim Il Sung University. We were welcomed to an excellent English class where a dynamic teacher was instructing a very attentive class. Of course we had to take our turn in addressing the class but it was refreshing to see the students eagerness to learn and enthusiasm to absorb as much information as possible. If students were like this in the UK, the teaching profession would be dream vocation.

After lunch we had a meeting with the highest ranking member of the authorities on our itinerary - the Speaker at the Supreme People's Assembly. He had a calm presence and kind eyes and carried a statesmanlike air about him. He welcomed us warmly although repeated the credo about building up a powerful and prosperous nation and how their 'military first' strategy was the highest priority. Our discussion centred on how we can help North Korea move towards, not away from, the international community as means of achieving their goals for the prosperity of their country.

After our visit to the children's palace to see a celebration of the Lunar festival, I understood something of what sustains the North Korean system。 Children filled the stage and performed breathtaking gymnastic, scintillating piano concertos and wonderful dance routines which would have put my school panto firmly in the shade. But they also sang songs of devotion to The Great Leader that made your realise how quickly a person's view of the world can be set in place.

We finished our day with what can only be described as banquet with the Speaker of the Korean parliament. I counted that we were served eleven courses from trout to pheasant dishes. Baroness Cox recounted the story of Churchill, who was no fan of women in politics, but was once told by the first female member of parliament 'Winston, if I was your husband, I would put poison in your coffee.' To which Churchill replied, 'madam, if I was your husband, I would drink it!' Our Korean hosts were almost bent double with laughter.

Memoir of North Korea - Day 4



Feb 6th

We finished our time in North Korea with a visit to the beautiful mountains North of Pyongyang. We visited a museum - perhaps the only one in the world - which contains hundreds of gifts from the leaders of nations who wanted to honour the life of the late Kim Il Sung. Gifts from a list of leaders including Stalin, Tito, Mugabe, Honeker, Chairman Mao, Castro, Ceausescu were a sobering reminder of the lure of totalitarianism that defined the last century.

We took the opportunity to visit churches – Protestant, Catholic and Orthodox which are starting to emerge – and we impressed upon those we met the importance of allowing religious liberty to prevail. Some progress has been made in terms of them being able to build new buildings which was positive. The priests we did meet talked enthusiastically about their congregations though clearly allegiance to Kim Jung Il is a prerequisite for all in North Korea. It wasn't clear how easy it is for ordinary citizens to practice their faith freely.

Our last meal in North Korea was dinner at the revolving restaurant at the top of the Koyro hotel。 It was an opportunity to thank our hosts。 I made a speech in which I admitted that I had come to the country with that attitude 'that I thought I knew what is best for North Korea'. I felt it important to express how humbled I had been by the sincerity and kindness with which we had been received. I hadn’t expected it but my comfortable preconceptions had been challenged.

I went onto say that there is a big job to do if we are to build a more peaceful and equitable world. We would all need to be willing to learn from each other.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

10 things you might not know about North Korea

Next week, I am visiting one of the most closed countries on earth – it is one of the few remaining Stalinist states. Here are a few key facts:

1. After a half century of isolation, North Korea remains has one of the largest standing armies in the world.
2. 80,000 South Korean civilians are thought to have been abducted by North Korea during the Korean war (1950-53)
3. In 1994, The Great Leader Kim Il Sung died after 50 years of undiluted power.
4. Succession went to Kim’s son Kim Jong-il – a man whose birth was apparently marked by a sightings of a double rainbow and a new star
5. An estimated 2 million people died from food shortages in North Korea during the 1990s.
6. In 2002 US President George W Bush named the country as part of an "axis of evil"
7. In 2006, North Korea became the ninth country to possess nuclear weapons
8. In June 2008, the authorities in the capital Pyongang finally handed over a list of the country's nuclear assets and in the October agreed to give international inspectors full access to its nuclear sites
9. Military spending is still 20% of GDP
10. There is no internet connection in North Korea