There is one metric that stands out as a sign that a city has come of age and fully embraced modernity. Can you easily lace up your trainers and head out for a run (running being easily the best way explore a new city)? The last time I was in Beijing, in 2008, running was more a health hazard than a leisure pursuit. Running on the streets was a bit like going for a jog in a smoke-filled pub in the 90s. Actually maybe worse, more like doing mouth-to-mouth resuscitation on an exhaust pipe. The ubiquitous three-wheeled tuk-tuks were the chief culprits, belching out generous plumes of black smoke seemingly designed to fill your lungs. But there was another problem: there were scent pavements to run on and the ones there were ankle breakers . The priority was roads and buildings. Pedestrian walkways, particularly those that might encourage people to exercise, seemed pretty far down the list. Fast forward to 2026 and Beijing has come on leaps and bounds on both fronts. The tuk-tuks have l...
On the train to Gatwick, the sun splashes its light on a golden valley, resplendent in autumn colours. I’m guessing I’ll see some amazing vistas on my sourjourn across Asia but I know I’ll miss the quiet grandeur of this Blighty view. I’m leaving for the Silk Road. I leave with a mixture of eager anticipation and anxious apprehension. It’s 20 years ago since I travelled and lived in northern Thailand - an experience that enriched and changed me. I feel the same excitement to explore for several weeks. I’m clear this kind of adventure is an extraordinary privilege. But. Have my logistical skills wintered on the vine? Will Chinese immigration wonder why I only have a one way flight? Can I thread my way through Central Asia at a time of heightened geo political conflict? More fundamentally, am I still capable of real independence? On a recent dog walk last week, a weather beaten car had a sticker in the window. It said ‘travel -always good.’ ...