The last 24 hours have been a rude awakening. I’ve had the softest of soft entries into China, complete with a cultural and IT induction from Phil and use of his Chinese driver (Mr Lei) to get me around Beijing. Mr Lei is a chattering, diminutive man bursting with positive energy but a truly awful driver! However, his seats have a massage function which help me relax and is a nice contrast from the trauma of my previous massage - see last blog. But now I’m on own. Being a solo traveller in China is an instantly lonely affair. Almost no one speaks English. As I wander around the soulless and cavernous Beijing West train station, I feel lost and invisible - like some mute, subterranean alien alone in an industrial-scale transport system. I feel flat. If I’m honest, I feel afraid. I am out of my depth and I know I’m just one lapse of concentration or mislaid phone away from disaster. Even finding the right platform seems like a feat of orienteering. ...
I spent the last couple of days on adventures in Datong, with my great friend Phil. We sped there from Beijing on a bullet train that travels at 180kph, literally levitating above the track. It made almost no sound as it hurtled through China’s rugged plains. Datong is a historic city, rebuilt in more recent times, with a history stretching back some 1,500 years. Just outside the city are the Yungang Grottoes, carved into the sandstone hills during the Northern Wei dynasty, one of the earliest dynasties to embrace and promote Buddhism in China. They are moving and breathtaking. Painstaking work from hundreds of years ago; paying forward to humanity a reminder of some simple truths to help make sense of our existence. The scale and intricacy of the work is overwhelming. Enormous Buddha statues, some reaching 17 to 20 metres in height, sit alongside hundreds of smaller, intricately carved figures and symbols. All etched into the rock with little more than hamme...